Princeville

As you pass the gated but open entrance to Princeville, an ornate fountain welcomes you to what could be just another expensive suburban community. The Hanalei Bay Resort and the Princeville Hotel are the primary hotels/resorts in the compound. While there are commercial properties in the area, Princeville is on the most part residential. The Princeville Hotel run by Starwood features one the grandest lobbies I have ever seen. It’s a lobby befitting one the most expensive hotels on an island full of expensive hotels. The rack rate for rooms can be easily over $500 depending on the season. The rooms themselves are located below the lobby which sits on the 9th floor. The Princeville manages to get around Kaua’is building ordinances against any buildings taller than a coconut tree (3 or 4 stories) by building down rather than up. The bulk of the hotel is built into the cliff walls of Hanalei Bay. The Princeville hosts two very expensive restaurants, the Hanalei café and La Cascata. The food at the café is more contemporary while La Cascata offers more traditional Mediterranean fare. One way to enjoy the view without paying through the nose is to have drinks and appetizers at The Living Room, the main bar at the Princeville. The outside terrace adjacent to the main seating area is popular location to catch the sunset. This is what we did one night before actually feeding ourselves with cheap Chinese takeout at Panda’s Kitchen in Hanalei.

Hanalei

Heading west past a sharp and badly identified hairpin turn is Hanalei Bay which is encircled by lush mountains. At the apex of the bay lies Hanalei a quaint town with a small town center with a number of restaraunts both within and outside the Chin Young marketplace. Towards the water, Hanalei town hosts a wonderful beach, Hanalei Beach. Hanalei Beach makes up a greater portion of the bay and offers wonderful swimming year round. We were there are on slightly stormy day, and as a results found good but manageable surf. I regretted not having a boogie board as watched first time surfers hitting the waves in wet suits. Next time in Hawaii, I’m going to try surfing. I felt I didn’t have enough time on this trip to dedicate a full day to learning.

Postcards Café

The restaurant built in 1992 is a replica of an old. The menu eschews meat other than fish, and generally uses organic ingredients where available. The interior is relaxed without being too informal. In addition there is an outdoor seating area on the patio where we actually ended up sitting. We started off with the pupu platter, a perfect sampler for two, which was excellent. The platter consisted of fried tarot, shrimp, tuna sashimi, and vegetarian spring rolls. Our expectations were raised. However, both our entrees disappointed. I had the wasabi encrusted Tuna, while my girlfriend had the seafood Sorrento pasta. Both were delivered less than warm which I’m willing to excuse. What I won’t excuse it that both entrees were lacking in flavor. I was also surprised to see the seafood Sorrento used rotelli. I generally think of rotelli in a pasta salad rather than as proper pasta for a main course. Continuing the drive east from Hanalei across more one lane bridges are a few more beaches and the last stop on the Kuhio highway (route), Kee Beach. Past the beach heading south and east is the beginning of the Na Pali coast. Kee Beach is well protected by an extensive coral reef system located close to shore. As a result the surf is gentle, and there is decent snorkeling, though there is a limited amount of live coral to see right near the shore.

Na Pali Coast

Na Pali coast is the northwestern shore of Kauai. It’s in inaccessible by car. The Kalalua trail begins at Kee Beach and extends 11 miles down the coast offering breathtaking views of cliffs and ocean. Beyond the first two miles past Hanakapi’ai beach, a permit is required to continue. Hanakapi’ai beach is one the most dangerous beaches in Kauai. On average one person dies a year swimming in the surf of beach that’s unprotected by any type off shore reef system. Swimming is to be avoided. My girlfriend and I hiked the first 2 miles and then a secondary hike off the main trail to Hanakapia falls. Neither the main nor the secondary Hanakapi’ai Fall’s trails are easy, especially in wet winter conditions. The trails are both slippery and steep in some locations. In addition, the way to the falls involves a number of stream crossings. These stream crossing can be dangerous during wet conditions. The rocks are slippery and the current strong especially after heavy rains. However the rewards for making the hike are spectacular views of the coast on the main trail, and gigantic and secluded waterfall on the secondary trail.

Some fellow hikers enjoying the water. They were braver souls than I. Given that it was somewhat cool day in the shade of the fall, neither I or my girlfriend wanted to venture in the uncertain pool. The pool beneath the falls was somewhat dark ominous. We did get a chance later to refresh ourselves inthe smaller secret falls up from the Wailua river.

The hike to waterfall is 8 miles round trip and makes a wonderful day hike. The entire Kalalua trail hike on the Na Pali coast is 11 miles and must be broken across multiple days. Camping with permits is allowed currently at Hanakapia and at the end of trail at Kalalau beach. The other campsite between Hanakapia and trail end is currently closed. While I haven’t traversed the trail myself, I’ve heard that it’s not the easiest hike with some the same muddy conditions that mark the first two miles along the way. One section of the trail has completely disappeared, washed off the hillside by rains. Without any clear path to make footing, it’s advisable to bring a shovel to be able to dig out a foot path from the face of the hill.

Kapa’a

Kapa’a is Kauai’s beautifully compact and slightly bohemian urban mecca of yoga and would be vegans. Restaurant and stores abound. One of the Bubba’s Burgers is in town, the other being in Hanalei. Bubba’s serves and old fashioned hamburger, shakes, fries, and gigantic onion rings. They also sell Bubba t-shirts and other trinkets. In addition to Bubba’s our river guide also recommended Mermaids as a good lunch spot, and Kintaro’s for good sushi.

Wailua

South of Kapa’a is Wailua which has more of strip mall feel in comparison to the more alternative Kapa’a. The main reason to come to Wailua is Kayaking. East of town is the main mouth of the Wailua river and popular destination for both self-led and guide led tours. We enjoyed an excellent tour with the mom and pop run Wailua Kayak Adventures. We were dropped off and picked up by mom and pop at the Wailua river, and taken out on the river by their son. I thoroughly enjoyed the tour, and was more than happy with the service provided. Compared to some of the larger kayaking companies, Wailua Kayak Adventures offers an excellent deal at $85 per couple to share a two seat Kayak. Unlike some of their competitors who provide a full lunch, Kayak Adventures only provides a snack, but some of their competitors charge almost the same ($85) per person as does Wailua Kayak Adventures charges per couple. Given that the morning tour that starts at 7am finishes around 1pm, I think lunch afterwards and DINNER for at least TWO days can be paid out of that saving. Wailua Kayak Adventures is located past the town of Kapa’a to the north after “Movie Tours.” It’s no longer located behind Coconuts as many guidebooks state.

Lihu’e

The only two things I did in the Lihu’e area were either air travel or food related. The Kauai airport is located on the outskirt of the town. In addition commercial businesses of Kauai, as few as they may be, tend to be located in Lihu’e. We had two meals in Lihu’e that were as about as opposite as they come. Hamura Saimin serves Saimin noodles which might just be another name for ramen. I had the “special” saimin which comes with pork, wontons, and vegetables for $6. There is no better value on the island (certainly not one I came across). Even without the fantastic low low price which is cheaper than the Ramen I can get in Boston, it was the best ramen I’ve had in years.

Café Portofino at the Marriott

Mom and Pop at Wailua Kayak Adventures recommended that we go to the Marriott. They told us the restaurant overlooked the beach and the bay and was a perfect place for a sunset meal. It was, except we missed sunset by a few minutes as we ran late making the walk from the parking lot. If you go to either Café Portofino or Duke’s Canoe Club, it’s actually more convenient to park at Kalapaki beach rather than the Marriott parking lot. Café Portofino is the more expensive of the two options. Both restaurants have a similar view of the bay, but at Duke’s you can avoid being serenaded by the Harpist that provides light background music at the Café. The food at Portofino is standard Italian fare with a few more seafood offerings. It’s good but nothing special. You go for the view. While Hanalei Bay is much grander, Kalapaki beach and accompanying bay has a much more intimate feel that I find is better suited as backdrop to dinner.